I am often asked about visiting India. I recently wrote a letter to a friend. Here is a slightly edited version for everybody I know.
Dear <insert your name here>
You have recently asked about travelling to India. I hope to give you a small overview of my own experience and an outline of what you can expect and / or plan for when visiting. If I miss anything or you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
I am often asked about travelling to India and my response is always; “Just Go”. It is a vast, chaotic to some, but spiritually rich country. I believe that somewhere in a past life it is very likely that we have left ourselves a trail or “dropped keys” in this country. You may understand it better if I say that I believe it likely that “our souls have been there before”.
Travelling on your own is harder than going with a guide or travelling directly to a retreat etc. But this is the vagabond way. This is the way that we allow magic to unfold.
Over the past 3 years I have spent an accumulated time of a year in this magical country and have only touched the tip of the iceberg. I have spent time in Mumbai, Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and the Taj Mahal, Rishikesh, Gangotri and the magical Himalayas, beautiful Kashmir, Goa and Kerala, God’s own country. Some areas briefly and others several months. I am not a travel expert.
India is a tough country to get decent advice on because everybody that has been there will be an expert. In my experience, this is not a destination to book via a travel agent unless booking a tour of sorts. Most certainly not a travel agent situated on this side. That is when you get taken advantage of and also miss what you are supposed to see. It is a “just go” destination. Buy a ticket and arrive. No expectations. Your senses may get overloaded and two weeks will fly by in no time as a result. You may hate it and on leaving possibly be reminded that India stands for “I Never Do India Again”. You will never forget it.
I do have several contacts in various parts of India. Some I trust fully to the point of sending you to them and / or arranging transport for you as well as asking them to help with accommodation. Others are just acquaintances, but they are all good people and friends.
Safety – there are some scare stories about women in India. That all said, It is safe. I have often met female backpackers travelling on their own and they have no concerns. Common sense should rule wherever you go in the world. You will get a lot of attention and stand out. Respect the local customs eg cover your knees and shoulders in certain places. Somewhere like Goa is very liberal and they are used to half naked Russian girls walking the streets. You come from South Africa, there is nothing to be concerned about. That said, be streetwise. There are scam artists galore (as there are everywhere in the world), but if you become aware that they are just as likely to scam the locals as they are you, it becomes easier. Most travellers you see (which are Indian) are just as clueless about their surrounds as an international traveller and do not understand the language either, as this is often localised. On the spot accommodation is often cheaper for an international traveller than a local. If you do get scammed, such as paying way too much for a taxi, accept it and move on. It is part of the experience. (I hope that makes sense).
Visas – You may apply for a 30 days e-visa. This is done online and takes 4 days to issue.
Flights – I have used 15 – 29 Nov as a test period. With Emirates your return flights Cape Town to Mumbai would cost R6860.00 including all taxes. So November seems to be a great time to travel! This may increase to R8-9k in December and during January it is often in the region of R13-14k.
Local travel – you can travel by air, by train or by car. Travel is slower due to the congestion and the amount of people that are constantly moving. Avoid travelling with aircon in trains. It just becomes a metal capsule, especially at night. For context, 250km i.e. from Cape Town to Swellendam will take roughly 8 hours by road and by train. Everywhere you go is slow and scenic. Aircon taxis even over a long distance are relatively cheap and are a nice way to see the country.
Local flights are cheap and are the suggested way to travel long distances. Trains are romantic, but incredibly full and busy. They also take a lot of time and may not be suitable for a first time or shorter visit. Pick your battles as far as the chaos is concerned. Indigo is a low cost airline with very good prices, new planes and great service. Prices for November are roughly as follows: –
Mumbai to Goa (one way) – R1100 (flying time 1h20)
Mumbai to Delhi (one way) – R1000 (flying time 2h20)
Goa to Delhi (one way) – R1500 (flying time 2h40)
These are just a rough indication and actual cost may even less as I chose median prices. I do recommend Indigo but there are other alternatives of equally good value
Currency – R1.00 = Rs4.50 but you may get a bit less when exchanging. You can freely draw cash from ATMs and it is best to do so when possible. They are trying to go digital, but cash is best. No need for carrying dollars or traveller’s cheques except maybe to have something to arrive with and exchange immediately.
Where to go for a first time visit:
Mumbai – A vibrant city with a lot to see. Accommodation is expensive compared to most other areas. If you do decide to stay, I can recommend a specific AirBnB home stay or you can choose a hotel for one night on TripAdvisor. If you have read Shantaram then stay an extra night and visit old Bombay. Otherwise stay a night anyway, before travelling home and simply explore.
Goa – Goa is a good place to go to first. It is very beautiful, they are used to international tourists, are more liberal and will ease you into the Indian experience. There is North Goa which is busier and where the markets are. It is more hippy and touristy. Then there is South Goa which is quieter and more “idyllic”.
As a first-time visitor, if you do decide to go to Goa, I would split my time between both. I can send you more details in time. Maybe a couple of nights in the north in an area around Candolim or Calangute. Here you will visit markets and find the party vibe around Anjuna or Arambol. In south Goa you will find Palolem and many other beautiful beaches. You will find a Palolem beach album on my Facebook profile. It is as it looks.
Kerala – This is a beautiful place. If I must choose for a first visit mostly due to its beaches, then Goa is it. For a longer visit Kerala comes out tops. There is so much to see and is very beautiful. Alcohol is strictly controlled in Kerala. In Goa it is not.
Delhi – A crazy city and just a day or overnight location. If you do decide to explore the rest of the country, you will have to spend a night here. I have a preferred hotel. In the middle of the chaos. The best place to be.
Rishikesh and the Himalayas – A short visit to this area is tricky as you lose a day travelling each way. Mind you, you that happens no matter where you go. There is an airport close by to Rishikesh called Dehradun. (there is a song by George Harrison and the Beatles. Google it) November and December is cold.
For an experience, I suggest taking a 3-4 day tour from Delhi and do what is called in tourism terms, the Golden Triangle. This takes you to Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Magical places, sometimes crowded, but certainly worth it at least once. The Taj Mahal is a must. This building is everything they say and more and more and more. There are masses visiting it every day. Mostly all Indians. When you take your shoes off, put them where the sign says to, as otherwise they may not be there when you get back. For simplicity, I would do this via road with an aircon taxi. The whole trip including taxi and middle of the road accommodation should cost no more than R5000 each. If this sounds like an idea I would organise this through a local travel agent I know and get firmer costs.
I think I can keep writing endlessly, but without having a better idea of what you both have in mind, I may end up just rambling on and on.
Wherever you end up in India, you will have meant to be there. You may never want to go back or wonder why you went in the first place. A few weeks later you will want to go again. Or not.
I am here for help, contacts, bookings or suggestions.
Just Go.
Much love
Anton